06. Putting it all together

It’s great to know how to use all the key functions of your camera but combining everything you have learned it can be tricky. In this chapter Karl takes you through how to put all your skills together and exactly how he plans and then shoots some stunning seascape shots.

Comments

  1. Why the LEE filter was inclined ?? Not as per the horizon ? Or you consider the Inclined Big Rock ?

    1. I think it was slightly past that, I use the stop lens down button to quick check my DOF range and then take a test then I zoom in on and around the test shot on the screen to check everything I want is sharp.

  2. I don’t know guys. I bought some videos from you a couple years ago and although I love your results, you never explain what you are doing to get the shot you got. ie where are you focusing, why did you choose those particular filters, etc.

    1. Hi Gerry, the focus on this particular shot was set in the moving water area where you see the sunlight reflecting strongly off the waters surface. At this position the depth of field was sufficient enough to render the area of rocks in the foreground sharp and the further distances sharp. This is often the case with wide angle lenses as they inherently have large depth of field. To check the DOF I simply use the ‘stop down’ button but more commonly I take a test shot and zoom in on the results on the back screen and pan around to check. For the filter you never know which one you will need until you actually try it as the exposure in the sky varies based on the conditions. However I didn’t introduce information on filters in this stage of the course because they are covered later as you progress through in order and my way of instructing is delivering the right amount of information at the right time so that it sticks. As you progress through the lessons and onto ‘Travel & Landscape’ and ‘Advanced 1 & 2’ you will find more information revealed about these subjects. But for your information the filter in this shot was a graduated neutral density which means it is dark at the top and clear at the bottom (and changes gradually from one to the other) its purpose is to keep the sky exposure the same level as the rocks level, without it the sky would not be able to be recorded but as I said I cover that in the ‘Travel & Landscape’ course which is the course to complete after this one. Cheers Karl.

  3. i am really enjoying your course so far, i have been having trouble truly understanding how to get depth of field and the correct exposure, however now i understand it all better and how to get the desired effect without just switching back to auto mode to get what I’m wanting because I am frustrated. Thank you for explaining it the way you do!

  4. Do you currently have any night photography courses? I live in Alaska and its dark almost all the time in the winter, I take northern lights photos all the time and have trouble with lighting people, trees or even the ground the way i would like to.

    1. Hi Felicia, There are some night photography sections in Advanced section courses but we also have more planned soon.

    1. Hi Ross, manual mode is the way to learn and to master your camera. Manual mode is also the ‘purest’ form of photography because you are controlling the Aperture, the Shutter and the ISO. When the camera is in Auto modes it also controls those same 3 things but it doesn’t always know what it is doing or why and often the auto modes won’t give you the creative freedom. If you’re shooting in manual mode and the picture is to dark then it is easy to figure out as there can only be one of three (or combination) of options. 1. Slow the shutter speed to let more light in, 2. Make the aperture bigger to let more light in. 3. Increase the ISO to record more light. The best options are 1 and 2 as you will find out as you progress through the course.

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