03. Sunrise

Trying to find the best light of the city often means getting up early which can seem like a chore, but it’s key as the light is usually at its most beautiful and there are less people about to disrupt your shot! In this chapter Karl and the team head to two locations both to Palais de Chaillot to capture a classic Paris sunrise shot and to the riverbank below the Eiffel Tower as he explains how to control the light and spot the perfect shot.


  1. Hi Karl,

    Greetings from Costa Rica.

    Because my monther tongue is not English, I don’t know if I missed from explanation in this video, if you explained how to set up the camara, speed and aperture, using the ND filters, taking into consideration the time during sunrise to get the best shots, I know you have to measure conditions of environment before using ND filters.

    Let me know. Thanks

    1. Hi Max, you can actually put the ND grad filter in first as it is only affecting the sky and it will help the cameras light meter decide on a more accurate exposure for the whole scene. But what I did here was simply determine the correct exposure for the foreground and then add the right strength ND grad until the sky is correct. We never know the settings other than say ‘OK i want f16 or f11 for depth of field reasons’ and then you work everything out manually from that point. To fully understand that process then go to our ‘Introduction course’ first. Cheers Karl.

  2. Hey, what kind of contraption was that on your camera? Did I see a new product, some kind of “Bunggy Cord” to hold down the camera. Does that help to keep the vibrations down? :)!
    I am just kidding, have a great day.

  3. Hi Karl.
    You use closed aperture here, even 22 once. I’ve read that there is a point for each camera where if you close more than that you will loose quality. For example my camera is Canon 6D and its maximum diffraction free aperture is 10.5 . Should I pay attention on that factor or it’s not that matter at all ?)

    1. Hi Anna, yes what you are saying is true but it is not such a big problem that it is often made out to be. I often shoot at f16 and f22 on good quality lenses it is fine. It does often depend on the quality of the lens and if diffraction occurs it looks like a slight softening of the image almost like a slight mistyness to the finer details. Easiest way to check is to set up a still life shot where you can control the light up and down in power and then run some tests from f4 all the way through to f22 etc and take a look at the results zoomed in at 100%.

      1. Thank you, Karl. I’ve made such test outdoors at sunset near a busy road (and now I understand that there could be lots of reasons for bad quality )) and results were not so obvious. Great idea – to eliminate all distractions and concentrate only on aperture. I’ll definitely run that test!

    1. Hi Lionel, that should be clearly listed in the equipment list on the bottom right here. But I can see it is not so I will find out who did that and fire them immediately!! Just kidding, it’s a 1510 pelican case. I’ll get the list updated. Cheers Karl.

  4. HI Karl Its amazing shot but there is a question What is the difference between polariser filter and ND Filter and ND Grad. Filter.

  5. I am one day in to this and already 13 videos in – yes I am hooked. However, as a complete newbie what would be really helpful is if all the images you have created had the Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed listed. This would give newbies a really good starting point to then adjust to meet there needs and conditions.

    1. Hi Paul, I think that starts to happen in chapters you have coming up soon. Usually I mention the settings in the video and I think they are shown on final images at the end of certain the chapters. I’ll make a note though to review if or why they are not on certain chapters at the early stages of this course.


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