Sunrise Landscape Photography

Time is not a photographer’s friend when it comes to sunrise photography — take too long and the opportunity is lost.

In this landscape photography class Karl shoots a series of images in a very short space of time, demonstrating how to adjust your camera settings to suit the changing light.

He also goes into detail about the filters he’s using, when and how to use both soft and hard graduated neutral density filters, and how, when used correctly, they eliminate the need for comping shots together.

In this landscape photography class we cover the following:

  • Landscape photography
  • How to photograph sunrises
  • Working with filters
  • Hard and soft ND filters
  • Determining and adjusting exposure for changing light

If you have any questions about this class, please post in the comment box below.

Comments

  1. Good day Karl.

    Trust you are doing well.

    I remember in one of your responses to a question in one of the classes , can’t remember which one now, where you you responded to a WB question that you usually set your WB to 5500/5800 -6000.

    My question now is, with the graduated filter used here, what was your WB setting for the shot? Is it just the timing of the day and sunlight intensity that has created this three moods in the shots?

    1. Hi karl,
      Good Morning!
      in the video you have put your camera just above the railing. What is the reason behind it. How it would have effected if you had put the camera a bit higher /

      1. Hi, this was simply the composition that I felt worked best for the final shot. If the camera had been higher then the railing would have been lower in the composition.

    2. Hi Laurenta, my WB would have been at 5600K which is what it is usually at. The colour was very intense as it was a great sunrise, an ND filter darkens things and when we darken colours they also look more saturated.

  2. Hi! When using a grad ND filter, do you then lift any dark rocks etc. which jut up on the horizon line in post?

    1. Hi Amanda, yes but if it’s a soft grad you don’t really notice the effect as it is very gradual. Also you can angle the grad to allow for rocks coming in at a diagonal etc.

  3. I’m looking to buy my first Grad ND filter. While I realize lighting conditions will determine which to use, what would be a good choice to start with as far as stops. 1 stop? 3 stops,etc. ? Can only afford one at the moment and I’d like to find something that will help in multiple situations. Just joined and I’ve already learned so much. Loving these videos. Thank you!!

  4. Hi Karl, I have a main question for you, I see that you’re shooting at f16. Is it true, though, that over f8 you can start to see diffraction due to the fact that the light is passing through a too small hole and bouncing on the corners of the blades? I mean, is that just a myth that the sweet spot resides between f8 and f11? Thank you

    1. Hi Haitham, it depends on the lens, each one is different. Diffraction becomes a problem for me at f22.

  5. Hi sir, can you explain the composition in the photo and what is the most important thing in landscape photography ?
    Thanks Sir

    1. Hi Fajar, please watch our composition or emotion of light chapters to learn more about that. But I’d say the most important thing in any photography is holding the viewers attention for a significant amount of time and invoking a worthy emotional response.

  6. great show , liked the tip about dof button when fitting filter in place ,
    other wise love . this is what I love landscape
    thank Karl

  7. Hi Karl, Great results! At one point I heard you ask for a flashlight to check focus. Were you using the railings as a focus point due to their position low in the frame?

    1. Hi Peter, yes I wanted to to focus on the railings and then check a test shot to see if my DOF reached the horizon and it did. I could have focused a little further into the scene but it was most important that the railings and foreground cobbles were pin sharp.

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