Live Workshop – Photographing Clear Liquid Bottles (Gin/Vodka)

In this live photography show Karl shows you how to light and photograph clear bottles such as gin and vodka.

When it comes to photographing clear bottles, the process couldn’t be simpler. Watch as Karl shows you step by step how to photograph clear bottles.

Simple steps for photographing clear bottles:

  • Prepare the bottle – This includes cleaning the bottle and creating controllable condensation
  • Select the background and base surface – These will have a big impact on your overall image
  • Light the product – This can be done using just a few lights with basic modifiers
  • Photograph the bottle – Determine your composition and camera settings

Karl explains how to achieve perfect condensation to create that cold, desirable look, which backgrounds and base surfaces work best and how to light the product using just two lights. He also shows you how incorporate additional lights to further enhance your shot, highlighting the label and reducing unwanted shadows.

You’ll learn the best techniques for photographing clear bottles from a professional with more than 20 years in the industry and how you can recreate this setup easily and effectively yourself.

To learn more about bottle photography, take a look at our Live Whisky Photography Workshop and Wine Bottle Product Lighting classes.

If you have any questions about this show, please use the comment section below ?

Comments

  1. Thanks Karl for your amazing tutorials, first I’m from Egypt so we speak Arabic and i hope one day you have Arabic subtitles because alot of my friends want to join your school but they can’t understand english for me actually it’s okay. Second can i use white acrylic sheet instead of the frosted one i see u sometimes use white also because i found the frosted one is very rare in my country and also what the difference between the white and the frosted one to know when to use each one… thank you

    1. Hi, and hello to you in Egypt, I have visited many times for diving, love the Red Sea and the Egyptian people are always very helpful. just so you know we have english subtitles if that helps your friends! Yes you can use the white acrylic instead you just have to be careful with light facing it because it is glossy you may get a light reflecting like a mirror, but if your lights are in a good position then no problem.

  2. Thanks Karl, Loving these tutorials and learning lots whilst having fun, I am a newborn photographer and looking at different genres to push me out of my comfort zone. I do enjoy the way you explain everything its easy to follow 🙂

    PS: I love your studio space.

  3. Karl,

    Not relevant to this particular product photography, but is there chance that you would ever do clothing photography with mannequin or models? If not, some pointers would greatly help.

    Thanks,
    Sai

  4. Hi Karl, I noticed in some of the tutorials, that it seems you more often adjust the stops of light versus the aperture on the camera. When I did a short mentor program with a local photographer about 3 years ago, he seemed to have me do the opposite. So I guess my question would be, when do you adjust the aperture to bring in less or more light, versus adjusting the lights? (I hope I am making sense.) I just want to understand this. Thank you so much, and I am learning so much from you. I am glad you are doing all of this! Tamarah

    1. Hi Tamarah, I would always adjust the light if you can. The reason being that the aperture also controls the depth of field and the look and feel of the shot. Therefore we should be deciding what aperture we want to use for a certain look and then adjusting the light to suit the aperture when possible.

  5. Karl,
    I have always had a hard time making myself sit down and watch tutorials, to further my education and knowledge. I have found that since I have started watching yours, my creativity level has increased and I am excited about photography again! Thanks so much for all that you and your team are doing.

    Thanks,
    Sam from Texas

  6. Hi Karl

    Hello from Australia
    Loved this. Product photography is one of the areas i want to get into. this is a great video to show how to light a product and the benefits of great lighting.

    Thank you

  7. Hey Karl,
    I’ve been trying to find an equivalent to the projector attachment for the picolite. From what I gather is that the two specific characteristics are the ability to focus and the vilify to use 4 blades to shape the light pattern.
    Do you know if a version exists for Bowen’s mount or profoto mount strobes? Perhaps from another brand?

    1. Hi Kryn, yes it is a lens system that focus’s the light and before that are a set of 4 blades that you can create shapes with then you can use the lens to focus sharp or defocus as necessary. I’m afraid I don’t know of any other system other than some bigger ones in the broncolor range.

    1. Hi Derek, yes this can work for white wine. If you used the red wine setup then you would need to use a reflector card as we did in the whisky.

  8. Hi Karl & team!

    I love your knitted pullover, Karl! 😉 Btw: Thx for the great show. As always, it was a pleasure to watch.

    Greetings from Germany
    Dieter

  9. Hi Karl,
    New subscriber and I’m just starting with product photography (desktop, small items), do you have a list of what you would consider necessary items to have in one’s kit.
    I also would like to know the number of strobes (I use Profoto lights) you would recommend as a starting point.
    Thanks, really enjoying the lessons

    1. Hi, if you work your way through our product tutorials you will figure out the key stuff that I use. If after that you have further questions come back to me cheers.

  10. Hi Karl,

    Great show again ?
    You used a frosted bottle in this demonstration and I wondered if you had used a clear cylindrical bottle would the edges of the background have produced hard dark lines in the back of the bottle? And if so how would you eliminate them?

    Cheers

    Chris

  11. Great tutorial thank you. At the end you were talking about possibly making your own projection attachments, and I’ve actually made two different styles of of projection attachments to fit my Paul C. Buff lights. Very inexpensive but extremely effective. One is just simply a cheap third party snoot off amazon that I fixed lens extension tubes on to the end of it and simply attach any spare lens I have to it to focus and defocus the light. I’ve also made a projection attachment very similar to the picolite projection attachment with a lens fixed into a snoot but in between the snoot and the lens I made a section where I have aperture blades to control the shape of the light.

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