01. Introduction & Bluebell Woods

This natural light photography course will help you master a number of different techniques when using just natural light and your camera. This section covers photographing single subjects, couples, families, children and group shots and will help you understand how to find the right location, know when the ideal time for photography is and identify the best light for photographing.

This photography class is an outdoor portrait in a stunning location, but beautiful locations can sometimes be extremely tricky. They can be quite busy, which can make it difficult to keep the focus on your model.

In this photography class Karl explains the basics of photographing with natural before going into detail on how to isolate a model in a busy setting such as this. He also points out the best light to photograph in and explains why before showing you exactly how to make the most of available light by carefully positioning your model and waiting for the perfect moment.

In this photography class we cover the following:

  • Portrait photography using natural light
  • How to use natural light for outdoor portraits
  • Camera settings for outdoor portraits using natural light
  • How to pose your model
  • Creative composition for outdoor portraiture

Note: This course is available with English subtitles.

Comments

  1. Whats the slowest shutter speed you find you can get away with hand holding the camera without camera shake blur in the image? I usually find I have problems if slower than 1/800 sec but I am rather shaky as well. I suppose I just need to practice being more steady but I just hate to risk losing a great shot and often sacrifice ISO to shoot at around 1/1000 to be certain.

    1. Hi Jason, this will always depend on your focal length. In the Travel and Landscape course you will see me shooting handheld at 1/8th and 1/15th with a 16mm lens but this would not be possible on a 200mm lens, my general rule is don’t go lower with the shutter speed than the focal length such 1/200th with 200mm but that’s me being practised in shooting very still and composed. 1/800th should be absolutely fine on a 200mm lens?

  2. Did you use the daylight white balance because of the shadows/shades from the trees or you used it because your are shooting with the sun as your lighting?

    1. Hi Laurenta, primarily because it was sunlight but to be honest as I’m shooting in RAW I know the colour temperature can easily be adjusted later.

  3. This is not the first online course about photography i do. I enjoy watching you but i have the same problem that i have with all the other tutorial.
    You guys have to know that people who buy this kind of tutorial usually don’t have a full frame camera or a 1.500$ lens. We or I have a camera with APS-C sensor and a “normal” lens.
    So just for once i would like to see a tutorial when professors use this kind on equipment. Otherwise it is just sad to watching this.
    Maybe in a future, i hope to buy a 70-200 2.8 lens. But now its imposible for me.
    I hope you understand my point. My english is limit.

    1. Hi César,

      You make a good point. I am lucky enough to have both a full frame and 70-200mm. Although, I find the tips on composition (framing the shot, keeping trees and obstacles away from the subject, and learning how to use the backlighting, much more valuable than the shots that were taken with a full frame and 70-200 lens. The tips here should be applicable to any DSLR camera and most lenses.

    1. Hi Stephen, I know many photographers who are and it looks useful but to be honest I just haven’t got into the habit of trying it to see if I like it. As most of my work is product photography in the studio I’m often focusing in manual.

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